Japan’s Unescapable Abashiri Prison Museum (Minus that 1 Time)

WeXpats
2022/01/25

Abashiri Prison Museum is a special experience of visiting an actual prison. Explore a unique part of Japan’s history in the over 100 years old well preserved prison buildings. Learn about the daily lives of prison inmates, the miraculous escape by Japan’s Prisonbreak King, and partake in prison meals. 


Table of Contents

  1. History of the Abashiri Prison Museum
  2. Exploring Abashiri Prison Museum
  3. Fun Facts About Abashiri Prison
  4. Hours, Prices and Museum Rules
  5. Takeaway

History of the Abashiri Prison Museum

Abashiri Prison Museum is an outdoor museum with many nationally important cultural properties 重要文化財 and registered tangible cultural properties 登録有形文化財. These are designated by the Japanese government for the protection of historical/cultural heritage. The difference is that the former comes with more responsibilities. 

Abashiri prison staff quarters

History

Abashiri Prison’s establishment can be traced back to the early Meiji era when overcrowded prisons were a major issue in mainland Japan. The reason? An overwhelming number of political prisoners and the gradual abolition of the death penalty. That period marked Japan’s highest record of prisoners at 89,000 persons. 

At the same time, Hokkaido was still mostly undeveloped. The government had a great idea to send the extra prisoners to Hokkaido to serve their life sentence developing the area. Naturally, prisons were required to house them - these were Barato, Sorachi, and Kushiro prisons. Abashiri Prison was constructed by the prisoners themselves in the small fishing village of Abashiri as a branch prison to the main Kushiro prison. 

In 1909 (Meiji 42), Abashiri Prison was almost completely destroyed by a fire. The reconstruction was completed into its present form 3 years later with significant upgrades to facilities and equipment. At one time, it was even called the Most Modern Facility in Japan. 

※ Abashiri Prison Museum, "Abashiri Prison Museum" “第4話 建物の歴史

Location and Access

Abashiri Prison Museum can be found in Abashiri, east Hokkaido facing Lake Abashiri. 

The prison itself is located in a remote area. This was deliberate to prevent the escape of inmates - or so they hoped.

※ Abashiri Prison Museum, "Abashiri Prison Museum"

Getting to Abashiri Prison Museum:

From JR Abashiri Station, take the City Tourist Spots Loop bus 市内観光施設めぐり (Shinai Kanko Shisetsu Meguri) directly to Museum Abashiri Prison 博物館網走監獄 (Hakubutsu-kan Abashiri Kangoku). It should take around 10-mins.

※ Abashiri Prison Museum, "Basic Information"

Exploring Abashiri Prison Museum

Abashiri Prison Museum showcases the hard life of inmates during the Meiji Era. Each room has a story to tell, the majority of it grim. Here are some things to look out for in Japan’s only prison museum:

Notable Historical Attractions

The entire museum is home to 20 structures, 4 of which are nationally important and 3 are registered tangible cultural properties. Here are some of the facilities to take note of: 

  • Kagami Bashi: Or Mirror Bridge, is the only access across Abashirigawa to the prison. The bridge is named mirror in the hopes that the prisoners when crossing would reflect on their wrongdoings and consider how they would change thereafter. The river banks are lined with cherry blossoms which make for a beautiful sight in spring. 

  • Prison Houses: And the nearby Central Guard House are Nationally Important Cultural Properties. The structure consists of five wooden single-storey long houses connected on one end to the Central Guard House. The final formation resembles the top half of an asterisk. Inside the prison houses are of course numerous prison cells.

  • Courthouse: This was the Abashiri Branch court that would preside over offenses. A single-judge court for minor offenses, and a full panel of 3 judges for major offenses. The furniture in the courthouse are actual historical items that were used previously in real courtrooms.

  • Bath House: Back in those days, inmates were only allowed to wash once a week in warm seasons, and once a month in colder months. They were also allowed only 12-mins to finish bathing including removal and putting on clothes. The bathhouse has statues depicting prisoners in midbath. You can see that some of them are sporting Yakuza tattoos.

  • Others: Other notable attractions include the solitary confinement chambers, the Japanese traditional architecture style lecture hall for inmates' spiritual reformation (also a Nationally Important Cultural Property, the temporary quarters otherwise known as “traveling prison”, and the prison staff quarters which are quite homey.

※ Abashiri Prison Museum, "Exhibition Facilities"

Virtual Reality Experience Movie Theater

The virtual reality experience movie theater shows the excavation of the central road about a century ago. What is cool about the virtual reality experience movie theater is that it allows you to use your five senses for an immersive and realistic experience. It is 7-mins long and available in 5 different languages.

Prison Meals

Curious what prison meals taste like? Here in Abashiri prison you can try it for yourself. 

Feedback from those that tried it say it’s unexpectedly delicious! The prison meal consists of a main grilled fish dish, miso soup, mixed rice, and a vegetable side dish. Sounds like a typical Teishoku to me. 

Coffee Break in a Nationally Important Cultural Property

Considering how important they are, it’s surprising that a coffee shop has been set up in the all important Prison Administration Building. As the name implies, this is the command center for the prison where the warden and other important bureaus are stationed. The wooden building has an European vibe. Enjoy cake, sandwiches, and ice cream with your coffee as you admire the interior. 

There is also a museum shop set up here selling souvenirs and prison research work. The souvenirs are handcrafted by prison inmates as part of their rehabilitation programme. Support their efforts and get one to remind you of this day.

Fun Facts About Abashiri Prison

Statue of prisoner to make Abashiri Prison Museum more realistic

Notable Inmates

  • Yoshie Shiratori: Japan’s King of Prison Break is one of the reasons for Abashiri Prison’s fame. His greatest feat is breaking prison four times within a short span of three years. His escape from Abashiri was an ingenious work of art involving miso soup and the cover of darkness. He used miso soup to gradually corrode his handcuffs. During a blackout, he slipped out through the food slot. 

  • Branko Vukelić: A Russian war spy who first came to Tokyo in 1932 to carry out his espionage mission. From 1940, the Japanese started cracking down on suspected spies and even thoroughly checking foreigners. Vukelić was able to send his family off safely but unable to guarantee safety for himself. On 18 October 1941, he and the rest of the spy ring were arrested. The discovery of his dark room containing evidence of his espionage activities of photographing Japanese military facilities was conclusive evidence of his identity. He was imprisoned in Sugamo Prison but transferred to Abashiri Prison where he succumbed to pneumonia caused by the harsh winter cold.

Featured in Media 

Abashiri Prison is an important part of Japan’s history which is why it became inspiration to works of media such as the following:

  • Abashiri Prison Film: A movie about a gang of inmates and their plans to break out from a highly-secured prison. It was released during the mid 1960s. The audience reception was also very positive.

※ IMDb, "Abashiri Bangaichi"
  • Yakuza 5: Yakuza 5 is the 5th installment in the popular video game series with yakuza themes. Abashiri Prison was the inspiration for Abashiri Penitentiary which appears in the game. 

Yakuza 5 Official
  • Golden Kamuy: A super popular manga series with an anime adaptation has Abashiri Prison as its background setting. The character Yoshitake Shiraishi that has the nickname of Escape King is based on Yoshie Shitatori (above). 

Golden Kamuy Official

Hours, Prices and Museum Rules

Abashiri Prison Museum entrance

Opening Hours

9:00 ~ 17:00
Subject to changes according to season.

Entrance Fees

1,100 yen (Adult), 770 yen (University Student)

Abashiri residents get a 20% discount. Moreover, the website (link below) has online discount coupons for 10% off.

Museum Rules

  • Strictly no smoking.

  • No photography for commercial use without the head office’s permission.

  • No dangerous objects allowed.

  • No pets allowed except for support dogs. 

※ Abashiri Prison Museum, "Basic Information"

Takeaway

Abashiri Prison Museum's administration building

Abashiri Prison Museum is the only museum of its kind in Japan. Visit the historical prison buildings with lifelike statues of prisoners carrying on with their daily lives. Make sure to try the prison meal, a special experience you can only enjoy here. There are other things to explore around Abashiri, so how about adding this western Hokkaido destination to your itinerary.

Writer

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