It comes as no secret that Japan offers many splendid places that tourists frequently visit. One of these popular places is the Pine Mountain of Japan – Matsuyama! Known to house one of Japan’s oldest and most famous onsen or hot springs, let us discover the beauty of Matsuyama.
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All About Matsuyama
Matsuyama is Shikoku’s largest city and the capital city of Ehime Prefecture. Best known for its onsens, including one of Japan’s oldest onsen since 1889, Dogo Onsen Honkan, but actually dating a lot further back than that, it is a popular tourist attraction. Matsuyama also boasts a literary heritage as well as a variety of places and activities that you will surely enjoy when you visit. Let us discover the wonders of Matsuyama in preparation for your next trip to Japan!
History and Culture
Matsuyama Castle
Although Japan has many beautiful historical castles, many of them are reconstructed after destruction. In fact, only 12 castles in Japan can be said to have retained its originality, and Matsuyama Castle is among them, historical importance.
※ Jcastle, "Iyo Matsuyama Castle"
Haiku Capital Matsuyama
What is Haiku? Haiku (俳句) is a form of Japanese short poetry consisting of seventeen syllables that are separated into 3 lines of 5-7-5 syllables. Matsuyama, considered the capital of Haiku culture is hometown to one of the Great Four Haiku Poets, Masaoka Shiki (正岡 子規). Shiki is famous for revolutionizing and modernizing Haiku. There are 2 museums in Matsuyama dedicated to his work; The Shiki Museum that has many of Shiki’s haiku pieces on display, and Shikido Museum which was Shiki’s childhood home.
Observe the various signs of Haiku throughout the city, whether it is a Haiku-themed tour, special Haiku postboxes to submit your own Haiku, spontaneous Haiku writing in izakayas (pubs), joining a Haiku competition, or more.
Natsume Soseki’s Botchan
Natsume Soseki is one of the most famous authors ever to exist in Japan. So famous was he that he was featured on 1,000 yen bills - one of the most commonly used bills in Japan - until 2004. His most popular works include “Wagahai wa Neko de Aru (I Am A Cat)”, “Kokoro”, and “Botchan”.
“Botchan” was based on Soseki’s own personal life when he was assigned to teach inMatsuyama Middle School. Which is why many of the places depicted in the novel can be found in real life Matsuyama such as Dogo Onsen, Ehime Prefectural Matsuyama Higashi High School (previously Matsuyama Middle School), Botchan train, and more.
Matsuyama is a prime visiting area for fans of the novel. Indeed, many visitors to Matsuyama come solely to experience the world that is Natsume Soseki’s Botchan.
Shikoku Pilgrimage
Shikoku Pilgrimage as its name implies is a pilgrimage around Shikoku. The entire route is about 40km crossing 88 Buddhist temples scattered around Shikoku which takes around 40 days. With Buddhism being a big part of Matsuyama’s culture, 8 of these temples are located in Matsuyama. Completion of the pilgrimage is a reflection of a person’s faith and commitment to their Buddhist religion.
※ The Official Website of Tourism Matsuyama, "Shikoku Pilgrimage"
Economy
While Matsuyama’s primary source of revenue is from tourism, it also houses various factories that produce all manner of products, including Ichiroku - a Japanese confectionary factory famous for their tarts.
Access to Matsuyama
Masuyama has its own domestic and international airport, Matsuyama Airport (松山空港) which is a convenient and fast way to get to the city. Domestic flights to Matsuyama Airport are available from Sapporo, Haneda, Narita, Itami, Chubu, Fukuoka, Kagoshima, and Okinawa, whereas international flights are limited to those from Shanghai, Seoul, and Taipei.
It is also possible to reach by train, bus, car, or even ferry.
By Train from Tokyo, Kyoto, Osaka
Take the JR Tokaido-Sanyo Shinkansen to Okayama Station.
Switch to JR Yosan Line-Limited Express heading towards Shiokaze and continue towards Matsuyama Station.
By Bus
There are overnight or day buses running from each major city to Matsuyama.
※ Japan National Tourism Organization, "Matsuyama Official Guide and Maps," p.34
Writer's Pick
Places to Visit in Matsuyama
Matsuyama is a traveller’s dream come true! From the historical Matsuyama Castle, to the actual setting of Botchan come to life, the beautiful Ninomaru Garden, temples galore and relaxation at old time Dogo Onsen, there’s a little bit of everything depending on your mood and taste.
Matsuyama Castle
One of the reasons why Matsuyama Castle is famous is because of its historical value to Japan. Built around the early 1600s, it served as a reward bestowed upon the great Toyotomi Hideyoshi. There are many ways in which Matsuyama Castle is unique in Japan. First, it is one of only 12 “original”castles in Japan. Secondly, it has the highest altitude of all castles in Japan. And lastly, it has a doorless gate.
For a special treat, visit Matsuyama Castle via special ropeway or lift and enjoy the breathtaking view of the castle. Get your camera ready for the grandest of sights, a bird’s eye view of the whole of Matsuyama City laid out before your very eyes.
※ Matsuyama Castle
Ninomaru Historical Garden
Situated at the base of Matsuyama Castle is Ninomaru Historical Garden (二之丸史跡庭園).Take a deep breath of fresh air and enjoy the scenery while you take a walk in the garden that is a replica of the Lord’s residence. The garden is enormous with gentle blue ponds, lots of greenery and flowers, as well as decorative stones. Be at awe at the different varieties of flora that once decorated the homes of nobility. Designated a “Land for Lovers” in 2013, the garden is a romantic spot often used for proposals, dates and photoshoots.
※ Matsuyama Castle, "Ninomaru Historical Garden"
Dōgo Onsen Honkan
Aside from the various interesting tourist spots in and around Matsuyama Castle, Matsuyama is also known for its onsens as we mentioned at the beginning! A famous onsen in the area is Dōgo Onsen Honkan (道後温泉本館) which is a public bathhouse and is considered as one of the oldest onsen in Japan! The onsen is also extremely popular among fans of Natsume Soseki and his novel “Botchan” that described the Dogo Onsen in much detail. In Dogo Onsen, it’s not just the onsen waters you will be enjoying, the entire building is a feast for the eyes. Elegant sculptures, coloured tiles, statues of real-likeness, beautiful woodwork and handicraft, panoramic view of the city are all noteworthy. I cannot stress how popular this Onsen is (their website has waiting times, just like Disneyland’s rides); just make sure to make reservations well ahead of time!
※ Dogo Onsen
Botchan Train
This adorable locomotive was an actual train in service back in the late 1880s. Made into an actual working replica, it can now be found in Matsuyama city centre. The train affectionately named Botchan Train (坊っちゃん列車 Botchan Ressya) after Natsume Soseki’s Botchan novel where it had appearances is a popular attraction for tourists and fans of the novel alike. A train ride around Matsuyama aboard Botchan Ressha costs 1,000 yen.
There is even a free museum you can visit to learn all about the train including a full-scale replica and parts and pieces of the train.
※ IYOTETSU, "Botchan Train Museum"
Bansuisou
Built in 1922, Bansuisou (萬翠荘) is a French-European style home that housed a direct descendant of nobility. Its Western architecture and gardens makes this building a truly remarkable sight in Japan. Travel back in time to olden day Europe in the epitome of luxury that once hosted the imperial family.
※ Bansuisou
Where to eat in Matsuyama?
No Japan trip is complete without tasting delectable dishes! Here are some of the most popular restaurants in Matsuyama that you will surely enjoy!
Shirasagi Do
Shirasagi-Do (白鷺堂) is known for their Botchan dango and taruto (not a typo). Grab one and eat while walking.
Goshiki
For a taste of authentic Japanese food, try Goshiki! It offers a variety of sumptuous local dishes such as somen or wheat noodles, sashimi, and even fried octopus! Make sure you have this restaurant as a must-try-out place when you are within the vicinity.
Nikitatsu-An
Cap off your day with an ice-cold freshly brewed beer at Nikitatsu-An. Try Dogo Beer available in 3 flavours (Botchan, Madonna, Soseki), made only in Dogo Brewery Matsuyama. Alternatively visit Dogo Brewery Restaurant located right across from Dogo Onsen. Don’t forget to order local specialty food that goes well with your beer!
Oidenka
If you want the freshest catch of the day, then consider visiting Oidenka. Their bestseller and one of Matsuyama’s specialties is the sea bream with rice. Their ingredients are guaranteed fresh having been sourced from Seto Inland Sea.
Mandarin Oranges
Last but not least, don’t forget to try mandarin oranges. Matsuyama cultivates more than 30 types of these citrus fruits. There are many specialty shops all over Matsuyama offering citrus desserts, drinks, or just raw fruit.
In Conclusion
From castles to gardens, to dango and craft beer, Matsuyama is a great tourist destination that has plenty to offer. You will surely have a great time in Matsuyama so what are you waiting for! Get packing!
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